Author fashion bets on the “here and now” in a changing society that does not make long-term plans; thusthe designers they propose well-made, timeless garments, who do not take into account the seasons and put themselves at the service of a woman with a will to live. Strengthened, wanting to have and offer a break, despite the current circumstances, the proposals that have been presented this Friday Roberto Torretta, Teresa Helbig, Jorge Vázquez or Braind and Beast They have opted for tailoring pieces without giving up those that invite reflection and joy. Teresa Helbig has been inspired by the women who have left their mark with her writings as Virginia Wolf, Lucia Berlin or Clarice Lispector with the idea of making a parallel with fashion, “an inheritance that passes from generation to generation, that lasts” over time without losing the reference of “here and now”.
There is something fascinating, almost monastic, about every library. In them, we navigate in strict silence and with voracious enthusiasm through writings of all kinds (old, current, fictional or real), letting ourselves be guided by curiosity. @teresahelbig #MBFWMadrid pic.twitter.com/rmiKyh7kNV— MBFWMadrid (@MBFWMadrid) March 11, 2022
An idea that translates into wonderful coats made by hand in Galician workshops, specialists in braided velvet, raffia, leather and chains. A cape in silk fur and a giraffe coat in rabbit and leather are two of the options to protect yourself from the cold, if underneath them you wear a studded leather mini dress. As always, Helbig shows off a precious couture with suggestive pleats and dresses in “lorzas tulle that simulate a spider’s web” and embroidery in rhinestones on velvet adorn masterful bibs on chiffon. Intellectual styles such as a tailored suit with a pleated check skirt and a bullfighter coexist with other mini skirts in wool and leather, with large pleats that give volume and lots of movement. An impeccably crafted collection, with imperceptible details such as delicate cuffs embroidered with hemstitch.
Madrid nights in the 70s
Jorge Vázquez has been very traditional with a collection inspired by the nights of Madrid in the 70s, specifically those of the Chicote Museum, where actresses like Ava Gadner drank drinks along with singers, artists, bullfighters and aristocrats, nights of singing, dancing and glamour.
The next autumn-winter of Jorge Vázquez is an ode to the purest national style, to freedom, to traditions, to craftsmanship, to mastery of technique, to the selection of fabrics and colors and to living garments. #MBFWMadrid pic.twitter.com/zJPSMoA5CV— MBFWMadrid (@MBFWMadrid) March 11, 2022
An atmosphere that the designer from Betanzos (A Coruña) has recreated on the Madrid catwalk with a live flamenco group, red carnations, light and vaporous designs that mark the waist and a pink and jet suit from the Galván bullfighting tailor shop. “Why not give a second chance to this garment, which suits women so well?” says the designer, who has brought this piece to the catwalk combined with a blouse. Along with a bullfighter jacket, impeccably crafted tailoring pieces have been seen, sometimes embellished with feathers, crystals and touches of fur. One of the most exclusive fabrics in the collection has been alpaca wool, “sustainable fiber with an ancient tradition in Peru that conforms to good practices of fair trade and eco-efficiency,” recalls Vázquez, who in collaboration with designer Anna Cortina has submitted a collection of hand-painted bags.
Presence of the miniskirt
The duality between the feminine and the masculine is the bet of Roberto Torretta, who in his new collection fits the waist, it allows the miniskirt to be very present and makes the boots the perfect accessory even for party dresses. “I really like to adapt the masculine universe to a feminine aesthetic,” commented the designer, who proposes wide, long pants and sophisticated cotton denim with linen and wool.
HM Queen Letizia visited #MBFWMadrid today, confirming her support for the Spanish fashion industry. pic.twitter.com/s69necVftJ— MBFWMadrid (@MBFWMadrid) March 11, 2022
Golden brown, caldera, burgundy or emerald green make up the palette of this collection, in which sustainability has been present both in the design process and in the materials, combining CAD technology and traditional cutting methods and ensuring that there is minimal waste. of tissue. The Brain&Beast parade closed this Friday with a parade in which He launched an order with tailoring, jackets that he combines with skirts and pants.
Ángel Vilda, the creative director of the firm, conscientiously works on sustainability in his proposals, where denim pants and jackets have a new life from remnants of other garments “pure recycling, a natural evolution” for his brand. One reason why he takes traditional vests out of context and sews them inside out on cotton sweatshirts and also makes them inside out, turning the usual exterior into interior. your motto “make virtue of defect” deconstructs the image of Alain Delon and Catherine Deneuve to make a collage as a print, a way of “questioning beauty” and its standards. A collection that has red as the common thread as a synonym for “blood, life, things that flow”.